Day 76-77 Chicago to Valparaiso, Indiana
Although
hot, it was a beautiful bike ride from Chicago to Valparaiso. I decided to break the trip into two days and
spend the night in Lansing, Illinois. It
was my intention to camp, but when I rested a half hour before the campsite,
the oppressive heat combined with the cloud of mosquitoes attracted to me
inspired me to get a hotel room.
The
extreme humidity caused my room door to swell and it did not close properly
when I went to bed. At approximately 2
a.m. someone walked into the room stating “There you are!” I jumped out of bed and shouted “This is not
your room. You must leave now!” He did not leave but approached me which made
me extremely anxious. “Don’t freak out”
he said, “It’s me.” I repeated my demand
that he leave the room, but he came even closer and touched my arm. “You must leave the room now!!!” He asked me “Why do you keep saying that?” This is an epistemological question for which
I was not prepared. I was pondering if
I was socially required to answer the question when his cell phone rang. He picked up, listened to the voice on the other
end, hung up and left. In the hour it
took me to get back to sleep I was pondering if I should have thrown in my lot
with the heat and mosquitoes.
Although
much of the urban development along the southern shore of Lake Michigan has
experienced the collapse of industry and subsequent depression, Valparaiso is a
surprisingly lovely town. I am grateful
that Minna Harlan, a former parishioner from Switzerland was willing to host me
for what turned out to be two nights.
Minna had
recently retired from JP Morgan Bank (the company for which she also worked in
Geneva) and is extremely active in her retirement. I am very grateful for her kind hospitality
and her willingness to listen. It
appears that she, also, had a strange man wander into her apartment the very
same night as my nocturnal interchange.
He had fallen asleep on her couch and woke her up when she heard him
sneeze. I have since been checking out
the corners of rooms to see what other surprises are lurking there.
She has
two parallel lives; one with her German speaking parents and siblings in
Hamburg and the other with her English speaking descendants in Indiana. She seems to navigate these two environments
with ease and takes joy in the occasional moments when they intersect. There had been some more changes with my
planned route, so she graciously allowed me to spend a second night there while
I planned my next two weeks.
While there,
we spent an afternoon visiting Indiana Dunes National Park as well as the State
park adjacent to it. It was a beautiful
place to for a hike on the sandy trails and to climb hills larger than I
thought possible in Indiana. I had lived
in Central Indiana for two years as a child and never realized that there were
beaches in the state which warned of dangerous undertow. It is place of great natural beauty of a type
that surprised and delighted me. In
cycling from Valparaiso to South Bend I was struck by some of the beautiful architecture
of farm houses I passed. These were
miles apart from each other and most contained huge porches offering a view
across their farms. The weather was
cooler, the bike paths were welcoming, and I was able to cover 60 miles that
day (which is a big deal for me).
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