Day 26-29 Wilson, Wyoming

 

“In Ireland, you go to someone’s house, and she asks you if you want a cup of tea. You say no, thank you, you’re just fine.  She asks if you are sure.  You say of course you’re sure, really you don’t need a thing.  Except they pronounce it ting.  You don’t need a ting.  Well, she says then, I was going to get myself some anyway, so it would be no trouble.  Ah, you say, well, if you were going to get yourself some, I wouldn’t mind a spot of tea at that, so long as it’s no trouble and I can give you a hand in the kitchen.  Then you go through the whole thing over again until you both end up in the kitchen drinking tea and chatting. 

In America, someone asks you if you want a cup of tea, you say no, and then you don’t get any damned tea

I like the Irish way better

-C.E. Murphy, Urban Shaman

 

     I am grateful for the organization Warm Showers which encourages folks to offer hospitality to bikers and hikers who are on long journeys.  It was through them that I had made contact with Len Carlman, a Quaker in Wilson, Wyoming requesting a bed for the night.  When I had to change my travel plans, I called him and asked if I could move my stay to a day later.  He responded that he would be out of town but he would make inquiries in the community.  Later that day he responded by saying that Christine and Erich Wilbrecht would be happy to host me.  I thought “why is it that one stranger reaches out to another stranger to offer me shelter?”.  I have been pondering this and considering how wonderful this is.

     I do not think that I present myself as a pitiful soul.  I have camping gear and a credit card and have other options.   I have savings and several people who have offered financial support for my journey.  I proceed on the assumption that there are kind souls in the world who want to offer hospitality.  It is hard to discern how to construct boundaries that are clear enough to avoid being burdensome, but porous enough to allow meaningful conversation.

     Henri Nouen, in his book,  Reaching Out; The Three Movements of the Spiritual Life writes:

“Hospitality means primarily the creation of free space where the stranger can enter and become a friend instead of an enemy.  Hospitality is not to change people, but to offer them space where change can take place.  It is not to bring men and women over to our side, but to offer freedom not disturbed by dividing lines.”

     So I arrived at the Wilbrecht house on Tuesday evening refreshed by my downhill coast from the top of the Teton Pass.  Upon arrival, I shared with them that Denise will be arriving in Jackson in 4 days and I can camp in the Tetons until she arrives.  They invited me to stay in their lovely home, and I was touched by their generosity.   I decided after the first night that I would spend one night in the hostel in Jackson and return for the remaining two nights.  I did so because I sense that I am a person who can be charming for 3 days after which time I become less so. 

     They found this a bit odd, but invited me to do whatever makes me most comfortable.   There is a lovely youth hostel which looks a lot like berths in a sleeping car.  Though we were not given much personal space, it was interesting to see folks from all over the world gather in the common room.

      The Wilbrechts are lovely people.  I am very grateful for their kind hospitality.  I am struck by the fact that the people who live in this region of Idaho and Wyoming are all so very healthy.  After graduating from Dartmouth, Erich worked as a fly fishing guide here in the Tetons and has been on fly fishing trips in New Zealand, Argentina, and Belize.  He has been on canoe trips in the Canadian arctic and has golfed in Scotland.  He skis both in the Tetons (outside his front door) and in the Swiss Alps.  He goes hunting in Saskatchewan and in the U.S. Southwest.  Erich and Chris currently work together as real estate agents for the region and have an intimate knowledge of opportunities for outdoor recreation.  

    Wilson is 6 miles from Jackson and along the Snake River.  Wealthy people from all over the world gravitate towards this stunning spot.  Liz Cheney lives a few doors down and her parents also live in the neighborhood.  According to IRS data, Wilson, Wyoming is ranked number 1 in the U.S. adjusted average gross income ($296,778)

      It was nice to be off my bike for a few days and to go hiking along the many trails to be found here.  While hiking along the Phillips Ridge trail, I found a sign indicating that we should make noises as we walked in order to scare off the bears.  I started singing Beethoven’s 5^th symphony (bellowing bum,bum,bum,bum) while waving my arms.  I encountered another hiker along the way who joined me.  We acted as if this was the most normal thing in the world. 

    Although it has a population of 1,500 folks, they all seem to be at the local restaurant where Erich and I had a wonderful dinner.  I am sorry that Chris had a scheduled trip to California with friends and could not join us.  Tomorrow, Denise arrives and I am looking forward to seeing her.  The next day, my sister, Jennifer, and her husband, Ted will be joining us.  As we are hiking around in the National Park, I will not be writing so much over the next few days.