Day 56-60 The Cowboy Trail

 

Day 56-60 The Cowboy Trail

     Valentine, Nebraska also marks the current western terminus of the Cowboy trail; a 160 mile rail line which has been transformed in the bike trail.  It attracts folks from all over the world and allows the rider to experience the beauty of the Nebraska landscape without competing with cars.  It is planned that this trail will connect with other trails to create a trans-continental bike route.

     However, the current surface renders biking very difficult.  It is hard packed sand which offers much resistance while peddling.  Insofar as the road which runs parallel, Route 20, has little traffic for the first 50 miles and has a relatively wide shoulder, most bicyclists prefer to stick to the road.  Cyclists from all over the world travel this route and are disappointed that the surface is so uninviting. 

     While stopping for a coffee break in Ainsworth, Nebraska I spied another cyclist at a table.   In our conversation he mentioned that he was from Poland and was cycling along the same route in the opposite direction.  We chatted for an hour comparing notes on places to see and places to avoid.  We could both offer insights into the places through which the other will travel.  He mentioned that the traffic density increases considerable as one travels east and that the calculus used to determine the preferable surface changes.  I found it interesting that we met at what is almost exactly the mid-point of our respective journeys. 

     His observations were accurate and when I reached the eastern outskirts of Ainsworth I discovered that there was a massive construction project to make create a divided highway to travel the increase traffic flow.  There is a cumulative stress which comes from biking 20 miles with large trucks speeding by at 80 miles an hour.  I looked over at the two lanes under construction to my right and observed that the concrete bedding had been laid and had not yet been covered with asphalt.  I decided to ignore the warning sign and cycled alone on this beautiful stretch of empty road bed.  After 10 miles I encountered a group of 8 Mexican road workers who were surprised to see another human being in this restricted area.  They did not reprimand me for my trespassing and took a break to chat with me about the magnitude of this project and their families in Mexico City.  I said farewell and they informed me there was another work crew 15 miles further along and radioed ahead to tell them to give me some cold water.  They shared the fact that this was hard, tedious, hot, and boring work and rarely have an opportunity for human interaction.  I am grateful for their kindness and for the fact that they did try to have me arrested for violating the no entry sign.

    For these three days there were few towns and thunderstorms every evening.  I therefore decided to treat myself with three consecutive nights in hotel which allowed me to invest in sleep and relaxation.  As I approached the more populated eastern part of the state the towns became larger and closer together and I once again enjoyed the hospitality of generous persons.